Curaçao, located off the coast of Venezuela, is an island in the southern Caribbean Sea belonging to the Dutch Kingdom of the Netherlands. Famous for its stunning 38 world-class beaches, Curaçao offers a wealth of snorkeling and diving opportunities, making it a prime destination for those seeking a tropical getaway. However, the true spirit of this island is revealed through its local cuisine and rich cultural history.

Learn why Curaçao is often regarded as a melting pot of cultures featuring influences from Dutch, Spanish, and Caribbean heritages. Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide will help you embrace the warmth of the local greetings, such as “Pasa un bon dia” (Have a good day) and guide you as you embark on your journey through this enchanting island paradise.

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Discover Willemstad: A UNESCO World Heritage Gem

At the heart of Willemstad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Queen Emma Bridge stands out. This historic pontoon bridge connects the districts of Punda and Otrabanda. Known affectionately as the “Swinging Old Lady,” this bridge, built in 1888, swivels open to allow ship traffic to pass through St. Anna Bay. Both locals and visitors gather to witness boats glide under the bridge and is especially enchanting during the evening when its lights twinkle against the night sky.

Willemstad is the capital and largest city of Curaçao. It’s a lively waterfront district characterized by a row of colorfully painted traditional houses. This captivating area, a former Dutch trading settlement from the 1600s, showcases distinctive Dutch colonial architecture infused with tropical Caribbean elements. Originally painted white, these buildings transformed into a myriad of vibrant colors in 1817 following a law enacted by Governor-General Albert who cited the harsh glare of the white structures as a cause for his frequent headaches. Talk about a colorful solution!

Visitors can stroll along the charming waterfront, reminiscent of the canals in Amsterdam, taking in the colorful architecture while exploring various art galleries and indulging in local culinary delights. At the northern end of Handelskade, don’t miss the floating market, where fishing boats from nearby Venezuela, a mere 40 miles away, arrive with fresh fruits and vegetables adding a bustling charm to this waterfront scene.

Another bridge, the Queen Juliana, named after Juliana of the Netherlands, is the highest bridge in the Caribbean, soaring to a height of 56.4 meters (185 feet) above sea level. This impressive structure facilitates car traffic between Punda and Otrabanda while also accommodating larger vessels entering the harbor.

History of Curaçao: A Colorful Tapestry of Cultures

Curaçao, a gem of the Caribbean, is not just known for its stunning beaches and vibrant nightlife; it also boasts a rich historical tapestry that showcases the island’s cultural diversity. Originally inhabited by the Arawaks, an indigenous Amerindian people from the South American mainland, Curaçao has seen a variety of influences over the centuries.

In 1499, the winds of change blew in with the arrival of European explorers. By 1527, Spanish settlers had established a foothold on the island. However, it wasn’t until the Netherlands declared independence from Spain in 1581 that Curaçao truly began to flourish. The Dutch recognized the island’s exceptional harbor and strategic location, transforming it into a bustling trade center for the Dutch West India Company. This era connected Curaçao to vital trade routes with Europe, Venezuela, and other Caribbean islands, primarily for salt and various commodities.

Sadly, this period also marked the beginning of slavery on the island. Thousands of Africans were brought to Curaçao, sold in the docks of Willemstad, and many were subsequently transported to Central and South America. This dark chapter in history has had a lasting impact on the island’s present-day culture.

Following the bankruptcy of the Dutch West India Company in 1791, Curaçao officially became a Dutch colony.

Curacao’s Language

One of the most exciting aspects of visiting Curaçao is its rich tapestry of language and culture. While Dutch and English are widely spoken, you’ll often hear Spanish as well. The local dialect, Papiamentu, is a delightful blend of elements from Spanish, Dutch, Portuguese, French, and English—a true reflection of the island’s diverse heritage.

To connect with the locals, why not learn a few basic phrases? They’ll surely appreciate your effort, and you may find yourself making even more friends along the way!

• Bon dia – Good morning
• Ayo – Goodbye
• Por fabor – Please
• Danki – Thank you
• Di nada – You’re welcome
• Bon tardi – Good afternoon
• Kon ta bai? – How are you?
• Bon nochi – Good evening

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Restaurants and Shopping

When it comes to immersing yourself in the vibrant culture of Curaçao, there’s no better way than to dive into its rich culinary scene. The island is dotted with restaurants serving up local flavors, making it an adventure for your taste buds!

Get ready to indulge in the island’s unofficial national dish: keshi yena. This scrumptious creation features a round ball of traditional Dutch cheese, such as Gouda or Edam, stuffed with a mixture of spiced meat. It’s either steamed or baked to perfection. The origins of this dish are steeped in history, believed to have been invented by slaves who creatively used leftover rinds of cheese to make the meal a bit more filling.

Another must-try is Kabritu Stoba, a delightful Dutch Antilles goat stew. This dish is a labor of love; the meat is simmered slowly with garlic, tomatoes, lime juice, peppers, and paprika until it’s tender and infused with a depth of flavor that is nothing short of spectacular. You won’t be able to resist the tender meat that falls right off the bone!

Looking for something a bit different? Don’t miss out on cactus soup (kadushi) and iguana stew, two unique offerings found in many local restaurants. The nutritious cactus, abundant on the island, makes for a tasty and healthy soup. As for iguana, it has a storied past as a staple food during slavery, and locals still cherish it today, often claiming it has healing properties. With a taste reminiscent of chicken, it’s definitely worth a try in stew or soup form.

And of course, save room for dessert! Dutch stroopwafel cookies are a delightful treat consisting of a gooey caramel-like syrup nestled between two thin waffles. They’re crispy on the outside and sweetly delectable on the inside. Pair one with a refreshing Batido—a local fruit smoothie that packs a punch of flavor from the island’s freshest fruits.

As you explore the charming city of Willemstad, keep an eye out for the signs reading “Uitverkoop” (which means “Sale” in Dutch). It’s the perfect opportunity to hunt for Caribbean handicrafts and artwork, the most cherished souvenirs to take back home from your trip.

So, whether you’re indulging in local delights or shopping for unique treasures, Curaçao offers a taste of the Caribbean that you will remember long after you leave! Happy exploring!

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Discover the Vibrant Art Scene

When visiting the beautiful island of Curacao, there is no shortage of things to do and see. One of the highlights of a trip to Curacao is exploring its vibrant art scene. From galleries to street art, the island is bursting with creativity and talent waiting to be discovered.

Galleries and Street Art

Visitors don’t need to venture inside a museum to see creative works of art in Curacao. Numerous galleries showcase the artistic talent of the island. Oftentimes, art is prevalent on the streets and sidewalks throughout the city. Artists showcase their skills through colorful murals and intricate chalk art, bringing life to the city streets.

Art Tours and Local Artists

Embark on a tour in Curacao to learn about the local artists who call the island home. Meet talented individuals like Hortence Brown, a skilled sculptor, and Shon May Henriquez, a pioneer in the Curacao art scene. These artists bring their unique perspectives and techniques to their work, adding depth and diversity to the artistic landscape of the island.

Art tours provide comprehensive and immersive experience of Curacao’s vibrant culture and history through a guided walking tour of the Punda and Otrabanda districts. Led by knowledgeable local guides, visitors can explore the colorful Dutch architecture, murals, forts, street arts, markets, and even a rum distillery. The tour also provides opportunities to learn about local customs, making it a truly authentic and unforgettable experience.

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Curacao’s Colorful History Walking Tour

Cathedral of Thorns: A Unique Art Installation

One of the most striking art installations in Curacao is the Cathedral of Thorns, created by artist Herman van Bergen. This impressive structure is made up of 30 million thorns from the Acacia Tortuosa bush tree, paying tribute to mother nature and the free spirit. Visitors on this tour can marvel at this one-of-a-kind masterpiece, experiencing the artist’s dedication to his craft and his connection to the natural world.

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Curacao Contemporary Art Tour

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Snorkeling

Have you ever dreamed of snorkeling in crystal clear waters, surrounded by colorful marine life? Curacao offers the perfect opportunity to make that dream a reality. With its stunning coral reefs, vibrant fish species, and calm waters, Curacao is a snorkeler’s paradise waiting to be explored.

Snorkeling Over a Sunken Tugboat

One of the best ways to experience snorkeling in Curacao is by joining a tour to the tugboat wreck. This eco-friendly adventure allows you to explore the island’s natural beauty. With no huge groups to contend with, you can enjoy the open Caribbean Sea at your own pace, soaking in the beauty of the underwater world.

Tugboat Beach is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and abundance of marine life. As you snorkel along the coral reefs, you will be greeted by colorful fish, sea turtles, and even the occasional manta ray. The wreck of a tugboat lies just beneath the surface, providing a unique underwater experience for adventure seekers.

Tour participants set sail in Caracas Bay. The sun changes the ocean’s color from turquoise – to teal – to emerald green, a beauty only unique to the Caribbean. Fort Beekenburg peeks from atop a rocky outcropping where green iguanas and royal terns nest. In 1703 the fort protected Caracas Bay and continued to prove its service by keeping the British and pirates out of Curaçao in the early 19^th century.

Once at Baya (also called Tugboat Beach), this rock and coral covered beach provides the launch site for snorkeling to a purposely sunken tugboat a few yards offshore. A guide leads visitors to an underwater world yielding big healthy elkhorn corals, purple sea fans, and sponges. As if in an aquarium, stealthy blue tang, curious trumpetfish, and angelfish flurry in and out of the tug boat crevices.

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Half-Day Snorkel Trip by Boat

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Beaches

With 38 beaches in Curaçao, choosing which one to visit can be a challenge. Beach hopping is a favorite pastime, and each offers its own unique experience. Some feature vast stretches of sand with swaying palm trees, ideal for relaxation, while others provide a wide range of activities such as jet skiing and windsurfing for those seeking adventure.

Cas Abou Beach, renowned for its scenic beauty and voted one of the 21 best beaches in the world, is a popular choice. It boasts an expansive white sandy beach, crystal-clear waters, and plenty of shade from palm trees.

For kiteboarders, Sint Joris Bay Beach is the most active. With clear waters and a rocky backdrop, it’s the perfect spot to watch kiteboarders perform tricks or to learn how to kiteboard yourself.

Klein Curacao is a designated nature reserve on an outlying island and is a popular destination for diving and snorkeling. There are several tour operators that offer a variety of options for visiting this uninhabited island.

The Sunset, Swim, and BBQ tour offers a relaxing catamaran excursion for those eager to explore Klein Curacao. Upon arrival, visitors can choose to swim and snorkel in the crystal-clear waters, sunbathe on the soft sands, or explore the island’s iconic pink lighthouse, wrecks and ruins. The tour includes an extensive BBQ lunch buffet on board the catamaran and as you sail back towards Curacao, you’ll be treated to a mesmerizing Sunset Cruise along the island’s east coast. The attentive crew pampers guests with refreshing drinks and vibrant music, creating the perfect ambiance for an unforgettable evening.

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Klein Curacao Sunset Cruise with Open Bar and BBQ

The Adventure Day Trip tour the leaves in the morning, should you prefer an earlier start to your day.

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Klein Curacao Adventure Day Trip

Explore Curaçao Like a Local – Travel Guide

Hato Caves

The geological history of Curaçao is evident in the 300,000-year-old Hato Caves. The Hato Caves provides access to awe-inspiring marine coral limestone formations, small waterfalls, and a colony of long-nose fruit bats. Petroglyphs depicting ancient tribal life, estimated to be approximately 1500 years old, are visible on the cave walls.

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Hato Caves, Turtles & Beach tour

Chobolobo

No visit to the island is complete without a stop at Chobolobo. This 17th-century plantation house Chobolobo distillery offers visitors a chance to experience the production and distillation of the famous blue-colored liquor, Blue Curaçao. This liquor is made from the dried peels of the unique Laraha orange, a bitter citrus fruit native to Curaçao.

After the island was conquered in 1499, the Spaniards intended to develop agriculture and brought Valencia orange plants with them from Spain. However, the blazing sun and arid climate rendered the sweet Valencia orange bitter and inedible. Growers began experimenting with the new Laraha orange, determined not to waste their crops. By thoroughly drying the peels in the sun, they produced an oil with an extraordinarily pleasing fragrance. After some experimentation, Blue Curaçao was created. One of the many ways to enjoy this tasty liquor is by mixing it with rum, vodka, and pineapple juice to create a delightful Blue Curaçao cocktail.

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Curacao Liquor Distillery Tour

Curaçao Ostrich Farm

A visit to the Curacao Ostrich Farm, one of the largest breeding farms outside of Africa, is a must. The farm is home to 400 ostriches, ranging from chicks to adults. Visitors can take part in a jeep safari to learn everything about ostriches, from egg to adult. Originally established to export ostrich eggs, chicks, and meat to South America, the farm has proved to be an educational experience for both young and old alike.

ATV Tour

Another popular pastime is embarking on an exhilarating ATV tour. Get off the beaten path and enjoy the spectacular viewpoints without crowds. This tour makes stops at the Aloe Vera Plantation, as well as the the Ostrich Farm, Playa Kanoa Beach, and an opportunity to explore a cave.

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Curacao Half Day ATV East Adventure Tour

With its white sand beaches and year-round tropical warmth, it’s hard not to feel happy on this island. Curaçao is a place where visitors can sip Blue Curaçao on the beach after a day filled with new cultural experiences and exciting adventures.

If you love adventure travel and off the beaten path destinations, visit and my blog boulevardsandbyways.com when planning your next trip.

Disclaimer: I may earn a small commission if a booking is made through the Viator links in my articles, at no extra cost to the user, and goes toward maintaining the Boulevards and Byways website. Viator is my go-to company when I need an expert guide or safe transportation for a particular tour or activity.

Danki, (thank you in Papiamentu) for taking the time to read this article.

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Bonaire, located south of Aruba and 50 miles east of Venezuela, it’s the B of the ABC islands of the Dutch Caribbean. Known for scuba diving, candy- colored Dutch architecture, and landscapes – varying from 30 feet tall prickly cactus’, to pink Flamingos roaming salt flats – makes Bonaire a unique destination for any traveler.

Bonaire National Marine Park

The waters surrounding Bonaire, and tiny nearby island Klein Bonaire, are both apart of the Bonaire National Marine Park, and have set the standards for the world’s marine conservation efforts. With 88 marked dive sites, it’s as if this tiny island was made for diving and snorkeling. Steep walls, sloping drop-offs, exciting wrecks, and crystal-clear water makes it one of the most revered dive sites in the world. A one-day introduction to scuba or a 4-5-day course to acquire a PADI underwater scuba certification, are all doable on Bonaire.

Klein Bonaire

On a recent visit, I had the opportunity to sail on a magnificent Siamese junk, the Samur, to the unblemished oasis of Klein Bonaire. This 56-foot, intricately carved sailing vessel was hand-built in Thailand.

The red sails caught the wind as it cruised the surrounding ocean, transporting me back to a time when sailing ships ruled the seas. The uninhabited island greeting me with pristine powder white sand and exceptional reef snorkeling directly off the beach. Parrotfish, angelfish, octopus, and sea horses gracefully swam about, undisturbed by my presence.

Bonaire’s Flamingos

On the southern end of Bonaire lies vast salt pans and shallow lagoons called the Pekelmeer. For centuries salt has been dried and harvested here. Nearby, American Flamingos can be spotted thanks to the conservation efforts of Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary, one of the four places in the world where they breed. Seeing and hearing hundreds of pink flamingos is a truly stirring sight.

Kralendijk

With colorful buildings, downtown Kralendijk is a charming town with boutiques and restaurants. Locally made glass jewelry and bath salts from Bonaire’s famous salt flats can be purchased.

Looking to try something new? Taste the local fresh catch of the day, lionfish. An invasive species to the area, it’s often pan seared with herbs to bring about its mild flavor. If you’ve never tried drinking cactus, you can at the Cadushy Distillery, the maker of the world’s only cactus liqueur.

Bonaire has no rainy season and temperatures are consistently in the 70s and 80s. It’s quiet, laid back, and there are no high-rise hotels or flashy casinos. For where to stay, the Tourism Corporation Bonaire provides information on accommodation choices.  

This island, dedicated to protecting its natural beauty and environment, must be visited to be truly appreciated. It’s one of my favorite places to kick back, relax, and explore the stunning reefs.

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Travel Bonaire, Bonaire Diving, Bonaire Snorkeling, Klein Bonaire, Bonaire Island, Bonaire Travel Blog, Kralendijk Cadushy Distillery, Bonaire Flamingos, Samur

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Some of the most famous pirates in history traversed the seas of the crystalline Caribbean. They sailed along the lush hillsides of the British Virgin Islands (BVI), beckoned by protected coves and inlets.

The stories of pirate lore inspired me to visit an 8½ mile tiny British island called Virgin Gorda. The island’s massive, giant boulders, called The Baths, are as dramatic to this island today as the pirates were to the past.

The Baths

The Baths are located at the bottom of a hill on the southern end of the island. The boulders form a network of caves and rest on powder white coral sand along the water’s edge. Wading in and out of sandy-bottomed tide pools and the Bath’s Cathedral Room – mysterious water filled grottos – my adventure took me through a maze of tunnels and arches.

The sun streamed between the crevices, the only source of light, and the shadows cast left an ethereal feeling. Driftwood ladders signaled a climb upwards through the interior of the cave.

Ropes assisted with navigating over and between the immense boulder formations. These boulders, volcanic in nature, create an environment unique and memorable, it was like no other I’ve ever experienced.

Devil’s Bay

Opening up onto Devil’s Bay, a stunning powdery sand beach with shimmering clear blue water, the Baths towering boulders created a perfect backdrop for sunbathing and snorkeling.

At the end of the day, I hiked back up the boulder-studded mountain to a restaurant appropriately known as Top of the Baths for a refreshing rum punch.

Lacking the bustle and development, Virgin Gorda is a place where you make your own adventures, and it is here they take their pirate lore seriously. The stories flowed as easily as the rum, and as tales unfolded, I learned how Blackbeard allegedly abandoned 15 of his men on a nearby uninhabited island off of Deadman’s Bay, with only a bottle of rum for sustenance.

How to Get to Virgin Gorda

The climate of the British Virgin Islands is tropical and influenced by the trade winds. Off the beaten path, only small planes and helicopters can land on the airport runway. Puddle jumpers fly From St. Thomas, Tortola, and San Juan Puerto Rico. I arrived by ferry. They run regularly from the island of Tortola.

When visiting, bring your sense of adventure and an appreciation for the island’s unspoiled beauty. As I daydreamed about Robert Lewis Stevenson’s novel, Treasure Island, I thought perhaps I’d be the one to uncover a doubloon somewhere along the way.

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I understand the Caribbean’s undeniable allure. I’ve traveled to over 15 different Caribbean islands. The crystal clear turquoise water and picturesque beaches are hard to resist. Each island has its own culture, cuisine, and topography. Yet more than any other island, St. Lucia’s Pitons are the unique natural feature that helps differentiate it from the others. Beaconed back to the Caribbean once again, I set off to see the Pitons and connect with nature on the island of St. Lucia.

The Pitons

Connecting with Nature on the Island of St. Lucia

The Pitons, two lush, mountainous volcanic spires, rise tall from the depths of the Caribbean sea along St. Lucia’s western coast. The huge cone shaped lava spikes are part of a UNESCO World Heritage site . It occupies an area of about 7,190 acres near the town of Soufriere. The conservation region consists of areas both on land and sea.

The two peaks, Petite Piton is 2,461 feet high, while Gros Piton reaches 2,619 feet. The trail to Petite Piton is incredibly steep and rarely climbed. Climbers require special permission and guides.

Gros Piton is however climbable, but even those in good shape reported struggling on the uneven terrain during the long ascent. Hindered by humidity and soaring temperatures during the 3- 6 hour journey it can be difficult, but not by all means impossible. Hikers report seeing a variety of birds and an abundance of wildflowers along the trails. At the top climbers are rewarded with sweeping views of the Caribbean ocean and St. Lucia’s 27 mile long, 14 mile wide island mass.

Catamaran Sailing Tour

Connecting with Nature on the Island of St. Lucia

While I wanted to hike up Gros Piton, I was on the mend from a knee injury. Instead, I decided to see the Piton’s in another way, by joining a catamaran sailing tour.

The sails gently flapped in the soft, warm breeze. The catamaran rocked back and forth in the gentle sea. I was blissfully relaxing. The boat meandered along the coast of St. Lucia. Lush jungle, hidden coves with crescent-shaped beaches, and small fishing villages paved the way toward the Pitons.

About St. Lucia

The many streams that flow from the mountains contribute to St. Lucia’s flourishing green landscape. The fertile soil in turn nourishes St. Lucia’s main crop, green figs (the local name for green bananas.) Green fig with salt fish, a spicy, hearty meal, is the national dish of St. Lucia. It was first served as rations to the island’s slaves in the 19th century.

The island’s diverse blend of African and Indian cultural history and French and British occupation over the years, have all contributed to St. Lucia’s cuisine. The local market in Castries, the island’s capital city, boasts 30 varieties of mangos. St. Lucia’s official language is English, however, Creole a form of French Patois, is widely spoken.

Marigot Bay

Connecting with Nature on the Island of St. Lucia

The catamaran tour made a stop in Marigot Bay also called Hurricane Hole. Steep hillsides surround this small deep bay and protect the area from inclement weather. The area is lush and secluded.

French ships would sail deep into this dazzling bright blue bay. They’d hide behind the sand spit to escape the British fleet. They would then lower their sails and tie palm fronds to their masts, blending the ships into the palm trees. The British in turn would sail right past the bay without seeing the French hiding within.

Kayakers today paddle past the tall billowing palms and mangroves with its distinctive arching roots. Free water taxis make it easy to visit the breezy bars and restaurants along the cove. Atop the mountain sits the village of Marigot, several resorts, and private residences. With an idyllic and peaceful vibe, Marigot Bay is a true treasure.

Anse Cochon Bay

Connecting with Nature on the Island of St. Lucia

The next stop was Anse Cochon Bay. Conch fisherman and local vendors were selling handmade trinkets from their kayaks. The calm water and adjacent reefs, which are part of the National Marine Reserve, made it a superb spot to snorkel. The dark sand beach offered a relaxing spot to appreciate the beauty of the area.

Underwater, schools of silverfish darted in and out of rocky areas. Parrot fish and French angelfish darted over the seagrass at the center of the bay. Colorful corals, sponges, sea fans, and urchins lined the ocean’s bottom. I watched local divers hand-spear the island specialty, fresh lobsters.

The Pitons in View!

The catamaran excursion continued its sail along the west coast of St Lucia. The Pitons peeked their heads from around the bend. “There they are,” I exclaimed! Two immense pyramids of rock rose sharply from the sea.

Covered in emerald colored vegetation the volcanic land formations of the Pitons were a stunning sight. They truly dominated the St. Lucian landscape as they came into full view. Their superlative beauty, indescribable. Staring up at a mountain more than 2,000 feet high is awe inspiring.

Near Petit Piton sits the crater of the Soufrier Volcano, last erupted in the 1700’s and considered to be dormant. Visitors can take a volcanic mud bath in the hot springs and then rinse off in a waterfall.

Unspoiled St. Lucia offers a myriad of ways to connect with nature. It’s important when you travel to find time to enjoy quiet moments and get in touch with the natural beauty. Whether you explore St. Lucia by land or sea dramatic natural wonders prove that Mother Nature can wow even the most seasoned traveler.

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T-Shirts for Haiti

It was 1984 when my husband of just over a year suggested Haiti as a vacation destination.  He had an acquaintance who recently returned from the popular Club Med resort and suggested I bring T-shirts for the Haitians.  “They need clothing,” he informed me, “and they are grateful for anything you can give.” At age 24, I knew nothing about poverty and oppression.  Beckoned by the white sandy shoreline and allured by the cobalt and turquoise oceanfront I found myself on a cold, blustery January morning standing in a long line, huddled like sardines in a can, waiting to board a flight to Port au Prince Haiti from New York. The four-hour charter flight was crowded and uneventful, filled only with noisy, restless vacationers embarking to this one particular resort.

At the airport terminal in Haiti, an austere grey building with wide rectangular glassless openings for windows, the tepid breeze allowed the Haitian flag to give a gentle wave as if to beckon me further into this mysterious land.  The wave became a stark contrast to the multitude of armed guards standing firmly and unsympathetically with their rifles.

The officials stared at the passerby’s and pulled clothing from suitcases in search of anything illegal coming into the country. Timidly I handed over my passport for inspection and made a quick attempt at shoving my belongings back into my suitcase.  Apprehensively walking past the armed guards with whom I shared a common bond as droplets of sweat rolled off our foreheads, I dragged my much too heavy suitcase outside. “What’s in that thing?” my husband mused as he grabbed the big sky-blue suitcase from my hand.  “You’re not going to need much clothing here, it’s hot as hell.”  I smiled to myself.  Stepping into a van adorned in what looked like 60s psychedelia, I was greeted by a tall, lanky man in a starched crisp white shirt and a wide welcoming smile. Beckoning to me by holding out his long-outstretched hand, he assisted me up the step.  “Welcome to Haiti,” he cheerfully exclaimed with a thick Creole accent.  “This is a beautiful country with beautiful people. You’ll love it here.”

An hour’s ride to the hotel stood before me as the hot arid air was tempered by a breeze passing through the open windows. Traveling through Port au Prince I caught a fleeting glimpse of the impressive white capital building, surrounded by evenly spaced palm trees. The paved road of the industrial suburb with its gloomy factory buildings turned to a dusty dirt road lined with tin roofed huts. The 15 people in the 10-person van started to look apprehensive. “Is there really a resort in this country?”  a few shouted.  Others pondered whether they made the right choice to vacation in Haiti. “I think I made a mistake.” Another exclaimed. I began to wonder whether I made a mistake too.

All along the road I spied Haitians working; either carrying, pushing, or chopping.

Some hauled children in makeshift carriers on their back, others bore colorful fruit in handmade baskets, while still others balanced massive sacks of what might have been flour or rice on their heads.  Amazed by their smiles, their laughter could be clearly heard amidst their hard work and poverty-stricken surroundings.  I could only imagine how hard their lives really were.

We learned from the driver that Haiti in 1984 was the poorest country in the western hemisphere and the third poorest in the world.  The annual income of a typical Haitian was roughly a dollar a day.  Those statistics hold true today, 30 years later.  Between the rows of tin shacks women were bent over in a single file washing clothes and pots in a stream. (I’d learn later was also used as their toilet).  The smell of wood burning filled the air, stinging my nostrils. It was their only fuel source for cooking. Ghastly raw sewage could be seen in the roads, alongside children innocently playing their silly games as they do back home in the states.

Many of the other tourists took a more positive outlook.  “Look at it this way,” one exclaimed, “tourism brings in much needed dollars.  “It helps their economy. It gives them jobs.”

Somehow the distinction between us the tourists and them the Haitians, felt wrong to me. “They,” as if alien, different from human. Deserving of their fate?   No.  Suppressed by a corrupt and uncaring government, yes, but no less human, no less deserving of clean water and an education.

Arriving at the modest resort, we were greeted and serenaded with an uplifting Haitian song and dance. Adorned in flowered skirts, crisp white blouses and that lovely wide grin we were handed a mouthwatering tropical fruity drink, pink umbrella and all. I saw the van driver lifting my suitcase with a grimace.

“See,” my husband chirped, even he thinks it’s too heavy. What did you pack, rocks?  I’ve been known to have had that embarrassing “jumbo” sticker placed on my luggage by airline officials a few times before.

“We recommend you take a malaria pill. There has been an outbreak in this country and it would be wise to do so”, the resort director commanded.  “Malaria”, I shrieked, “we were never told anything about malaria.”  There were no governmental health warnings when we left the states.

“This is a very serious condition,” He continued, “please take it and you will be protected.”  He walked around and handed everyone a pill. “How safe is this? I wondered and then never gave it a second thought.  This was Club Med in 80’s after all.

The resort was a stark contrast against the extreme poverty seen during the ride over. Scattered about were three story bungalows that faced the beach. Pink roofs topped the bright buildings, each one a different color, as if a child opened a box of crayons across the welcoming blue sky.   An open aired restaurant and theater could be found on one end while a pool took center stage.

I loved the scent of the sea breeze and couldn’t wait to immerse myself into the beckoning blue green ocean with breaks of white waves. Restless to walk the sublime beach and feel the granules between my toes, the sprinkles of shade from the billowy green palm trees that swayed in the gentle breeze provided much needed relief from the sweltering sun as they dotted the landscape along with tropical gardens and tennis courts. A dock could be found on one end of the resort.  The locals were allowed on the far end of the beach on the other side of the dock, off the grounds of the resort.  Every day they lined up hundreds of paintings facing the ocean, like tin soldiers waiting their fate. Sitting in the sand on the superb beach, talking to magnificent Haitian people on the other side of the dock was where I formed new acquaintances with the locals.  They would be there every day selling brightly painted Haitian art, hand carved wood statues along with highly polished conch shells.

On the second day, I took my bag with me, filled with items from my much too heavy suitcase. Putting it down on the warm sand I took out an array of new and gently used t-shirts I collected from family, friends and my own stash.  A swarm of Haitians surrounded me. I started handing them out; one to a little boy who donned a tattered ripped red shirt as if a cat clawed at the front, another to a young man whose shirt, too small for his frame, showed his midriff and still another to an artist whose paint splatter made the shirt look like its own work of art.

Appreciative beyond words, the Haitians shook my hand, hugged me and flashed

wonderful wide smiled grins.  Deeply touched, the warmth and honesty from strangers was something I never experienced before. “I have more.” I offered.  “I’ll be back tomorrow.” In return I was gifted with a painting from an artist named Michelet.  In bright hot Caribbean colors, a familiar scene of women in their colorful garb tending their chores, a small hut in the foreground and the sapphire ocean in the back exemplified typical Haitian life.  To this day, this painting adorns my family room wall. “Now I know what you had in your suitcase,” my husband mused.

Our accommodations while clean were sparse and dreary. I wasn’t too pleased with the room. The cinderblock walls reminded me of a jail cell even though two were painted emerald green and the other two, white.  One green wall donned thick purple curtains over the wide ground floor window. When open, you could gratefully see the beach.  Club Med in the 80’s was not known for its pleasant accommodations as the goal was not to spend time in your room, but to enjoy the myriad of activities.

We ventured off the resort one day to visit the Citadel, a fortress located about three hours away. This icon was built by Henri Christopher, a key leader during the Haitian slave rebellion after Haiti gained independence from France at the beginning of the 19th century.

During the first hour of the journey we traveled by bus. The verdant countryside dotted with small thatch- roof huts as children shyly peaked through the doorway of their homes. Barefoot women carried firewood strapped to their backs while others toting laundry and dishes headed toward the stream down a steep hillside.  Fruits and vegetables adorned the side of the road, abundant and flourishing in this fertile part of the country.

My husband and I transferred to a 4-wheel drive vehicle.  The ride for the following hour proved to be harrowing, navigating hairpin turns and constricted roadways. Eyes fixed to the dirt passageway, I tried to anticipate which way we’d turn as the driver negotiated the pretzel like road with precision. Hugging the flank of the cliff when another vehicle approached my palms became red and sore from holding on so tightly.  Continuing the climb, the road curled like a snake and the reward became evident as the awe-inspiring views of the fertile countryside

revealed the lush valley below.

The diver informed us “The citadel was built several miles inland, atop a 3,000-foot mountain to deter attacks and to provide a lookout to the nearby valleys.”  The location is so remote it still seems to deter people today, I thought. We stopped at the base of the mountainside where local Haitian men lined the dirt road offering mule rides to the top, an alternative to walking the next leg of the journey.  Heaving myself on the back of a mule for the next hour I traveled through the steepest, narrowest and most rugged part of the trip.  Gripping the reigns tightly as the mule’s legs would get so close to the edge, rocks and dirt would fall down the cliffs edge to the deep valley below. My fear receded and my eyes widened in excitement as I spotted the Citadel jutting out from the mountainside.

Thankful to have reached my destination safely, I walked stiff -legged as I gazed upward toward the angular two story stone structure in considerable disarray. Pieces of stone and rock were strewn about with no noticeable preservation. As I climbed one of the numerous staircases to the highest point – all free of guardrails – I spotted off to the side cannonballs neatly stacked and aligned in angular formations as if they were ready for an impending attack. It was thrilling looking out at the awesome sight of the rich blue Atlantic ocean, dotted by small ships perhaps transporting goods or bearing local fisherman. Taking in the spectacular vision of the lush peaks and valleys to the north, the tour guide pointed out the city of Cap-Haitian in the far distance. Shielding the sun from my eyes, it was also possible to view the eastern coast of Cuba some 90 miles away.

Outside the Citadel scores of Haitians attempted to sell their wares to the “rich” tourists.

“Don’t give them money,” our tour guide instructed, “they just use it to buy alcohol or drugs.  They are a very depressed people.” I suspected that the tour guide wanted me to save my money for him.

Approached by a no nonsense Haitian woman, grinning with a smile as beautiful as the perfect sunrise, she was holding the hand of a little girl. Her faded blue skirt, impeccably tied hair, shirt white and crisp as snow, was in contrast to her mud-laden feet and calloused hands. While most tourists turned away, I eagerly met the woman half way, excited to find out what she was selling. The girl struggled to hold a basket filled with soft cloth filled dolls.  Brown fabric for the skin, the doll adorned a multi colored striped skirt and blouse and bejeweled dangling shell earrings. A matching turban covered the head as simple stitches of thread created the facial features. “Would you like?”  she asked with that lovely thick Creole accent I’d come to enjoy.

“Did you make all these?” I asked.  “They’re lovely.” She shook her head up and down as she rushed to get her words out, afraid I would lose interest and walk away.  “You stick a pin when you want to curse someone.” She joked half-heartedly.  Smiling and giddy, I inquired, “A voodoo doll?”  “Yes. You buy one for your daughter.”  “Oh, I don’t have a daughter,”  I coyly replied, “but I would love to buy one anyway.”  “You don’t have a daughter YET,” she laughed aloud in a hearty chuckle making her belly jiggle.

Was that a prophecy, I silently questioned?  Handing her one dollar, the full price for the doll. I was ashamed to haggle. Picking one from the basket, with a smile I asked, “Where are the pins?”         With a big hearty laugh and a shake of her finger, “Ah, you have to get yourself.”  Exchanging laughter, I reached into my bag, which was slung over my back and pulled out a few t-shirts.

“Here”, I said, I hope you can use these.”  You would have thought I gave her the secrets of the universe, (but I had a feeling she already knew what they were.)  “You already paid me,” said the lady, as $1 is generally their whole day’s salary. “A gift,” I said, “enjoy.”  She took my hand in both of hers. “Thank you, thank you” she kept repeating.  I reflected on how a few T-shirts could make someone so happy and I am not referring to the woman’s happiness, I am referring to mine.

When my time in Haiti ended, I left the resort with an almost empty suitcase and a very full heart. I also brought back something else many years later. “Mommy, what’s that up on the book shelf?” “That’s a doll I bought from a lovely lady many years ago when I was in Haiti.”

Smiling to myself I clearly remembered her premonition and my memories of the country filled with people so full of hope.

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